MAGLIA UNCINETTO “GIRASOLE” – BLUSA CROCHE’ GIRASOLE

MAGLIA UNCINETTO “GIRASOLE” – BLUSA CROCHE’ GIRASOLE


Hello everyone and welcome back to the red thread channel if you liked the shirt you saw in preview stay my company we will see how to achieve it together step by step For this tutorial made a very very simple stitch processing because I used this splendid one 100 per 100 mako cotton yarn it is a very very beautiful yarn that has nuances beautiful and therefore I chose to work with to work it with very simple stitches for enhance the beauty of the yarn and also because the knit has a wide line, in fact, as we will see it will be a line very suitable also for curved cuts therefore not only for those who wear sm and size it will be the line and the beauty of the yarn they will give prestige to this this shirt for this project I chose this beautiful 100 by 100 mako cotton yarn a 50 gram skein is long 205 meters so it has a very important yield I do not used 360 grams for a size that fits from 42 to 44 I chose this shade of color You can find it on the haberdashery mary I will then leave you the link in the description of the info box where by clicking you will connect directly to the site where you can eventually make your purchases I chose this shade which is registered as a shade of beige but I must tell you that with the naked eye more than beige the color has shades of ocher tones that really are wonderful there are also many other colors like you will go to see very very beautiful, however, this ocher yellow shade intrigued me very much therefore this yarn here is really soft to work very very shiny as you can see and then the effect in the final processing is really beautiful because this parade this nuanced sorry create one very very beautiful light points of very very beautiful contrasts then for the work you will need a crochet hook 3.5 in will serve as usual a scissor one meter of the signs or two small pieces of wire are also fine to mark our points a wool needle to hide our threads now let’s see how proceed for our project the construction of our jersey is very simple I’ll explain it to you now then we’ll see it during the manufacturing step by step along the way Mainly I will have to build two panels which are the central panels of the mesh Once built first I make a panel first and I will go to work my sleeves after which I will make a a second panel as it is for a size SM I pay a 42 44 Italian then because of the breast which I have a little abundant let’s say my size varies between 42 and 44 I have for this shirt started 94 chain stitches plus 2 basic then a total of 96 chains the two are the ones I need to get up again during the work my base will be 94 chain stitches and which correspond to approximately 43 centimeters and I worked this panel with this very simple canvas stitch that we also saw for the lotus flower design that I worked on ppunto canvas for a height of about 48 centimeters once i have worked my panel i have mounted on chains on the sides of the panel to align it then I built my sleeves working with round trips x 19 cm with crossed high stitches then I put my stitch markers on these two sides and continued to work separately for another 4 centimeters to create these other two fins and here in this way I created a U this is because then I will take these two sides of the sleeve and go to fold them they will fall exactly in the middle I will go to sew the part of the sides that I have folded that will fit together and I will have formed my first sleeve then worked the sleeve I will take the panel I will turn it and do the exact same thing then I will proceed with the same working with the same system for the other side of the sleeve then we will see it all along the way do not worry that I will show you step by step how to do it then I will accompany you in every phase of the process once you have finished our sleeves and folded up we will do the other panel we will execute the other panel and we will superimpose it on top of this and we will go to make the seams along the sides therefore nothing simpler really in the end I also sewn a small piece on the upper part of the two sleeves because otherwise the neckline would be like this it will have a boat neckline that I love very much but you need to go close to make seams on the sides over the shoulders from six to eight centimeters then you will evaluate possibly you as much as you like open the neckline or not it can also be evaluated for a wide neckline to bring it with the shoulder out then this will be a choice I have sewn 7 cm per side behind me, at the end I didn’t do any finishing at the base because the shirt really is so beautiful of her I liked the cadence exactly as it ended and I didn’t think it appropriate do no kind of final finishing only once I finish my shirt and try it I have I have precisely evaluated the idea of ​​continuing processing Circularly lengthening my sleeve because it ended so my shirt ended at the level of my elbows I tried to work a sleeve to stretch it to see how it came out worn again I saw that I liked it much more with the piece of sleeve worked so I worked for about ten centimeters gave a different touch to the shirt it seemed a little more refined and so I decided at the end of work the two sleeves in this way then and for larger sizes how to do: for each additional size add to the base that I worked another four centimeters per size it is obvious that you are free to do it wider than the indicative measures that I give you so I have evaluated that for a size M with this type of yarn you can make a base of 47 cm – for a L 52cm and for a xl 57 cm I always advise you to make a sample about 15 x 15 working before starting and see how many stitches are within the ten centimeters and then multiply these cm by the base you want to make This is to build the basic initial stitches you need because I tell you do not mount the chain initially and measure it with the meter and then go to build the shirt do not do this because this type of stitch stitching working it narrows the sides and therefore the panel if I mount a 43 cm chain thinking then to build the panel on this on these chains mounted on this base will not be so of panel will shrink by working it so I recommend doing attention and always make a sampling of the project another way to go about building this shirt could be take breast circumference to adapt it to my physicality with the meter measure the circumference of the widest point of your bust that could be for example that of the breast then on this one circumference divide in half half will be the base of your panel then going to build the side sleeves that as you have also seen from the photos in the introductions they are very wide, we will recover centimeters at the sides of our bust circumference so don’t worry to take the circumference divided two to find the base of this shirt because then we will go with the sleeves to give amplitude further and therefore we will obtain a very very soft fit Furthermore how to make the sleeves for the larger sizes because I now give you the centimeters in detail for this size s not even me I can give you cm for the larger sizes, having not made it, however, I will tell you how started your panel e when you go to work the sleeves sideways You go to fold up then take this corner and lo put it in place match the base and make a triangle and do the same with this I two triangles will not have to match about 4 others will be missing centimeters for each triangle to join the other see these triangles here 2 rectangles here we will go to work by putting the markers I we will go to work separately so when you go to fall back this side this point and you go to close it went to join the two with the base sleeve fins must not fit together you will have to work for another 4 cm x each side to get to match The two sides folded before closing then we will see it again when we will get to the point of joining our sleeves you will see it is very very simple with the crochet hook 3.5 I’m going to start mine 94 stitches plus two a total of 96 chain stitches for a size s and I get a panel that has a base of 43 centimeters I do my 96 little chains the pattern of the point is this is very simple and for those who had I’m going to work it following this simple scheme to this here the basic stitches must always be of an even number so the project is a multiple of two mounted my basic chains jump a two three basic stitches and in the fourth I go in and do a low stitch A chain jump a basic space into the next and make a low stitch a jump chain the next space is a low stitch I go all the way around my entire base this way making a chain skips a basic space and the next I make a low stitch So as you can see it is very very simple At the end of my lap made my last chain entered the last space and I make the last low stitch I get up with two little chains then one 2 I turn my work around this is the first basic low stitch made and this is the gap between the low stitches so I go in here and do a low average a separation chain entered the space therefore and I make a low stitch so all I do is alternate the low stitches with the first ones below jump the shirt here escape a little bit of spacing A separating chain is made in space next a chain jump the low stitch and entered the space between the two low stitches I proceed like this Throughout my tour At the end of my tour, the one where I got up with the chains entered the final space 2 chains to get up and always return to the space between the two low stitches Separation chain between the space of the two low links a chain see it spaced between the two links is this here these are the lower links this is the other lower link and here in the middle in space I go in and do my low stitch In this way the result of the work is this a very simple stitch made of low stitches alternated by a spacing chain and on the next round just alternate in space we make ours low stitch and the chain above where underneath there is the low stitch then in really very very simple work that, however, gives this this sort of note texture is in fact called canvas point which is really wonderful in my opinion I recommend only be very careful at the beginning and end of each lap because it is very easy to eat maybe the last point then or you put a marker in it in the last little space, however, be very careful you see here you have the last low stitch and here is the small hole where we had done where we make the two chains then and turn the work so I have to crochet in here and make my last stitch you can also take a look by taking a moment’s work like this you see here I have my him my last shirt and these are the chains that in the end I had done to get up to turn work I can also point the crochet hook in here getting out this way must always remain the last shirt in evidence you see mine so found my hole I can the last one is made spacing chain I can insert my crochet and make my last stitch then make the two chain stitches to get up I turn my work I have almost finished working my panel and I’m going to start again and again this is the first low stitch that I made this is the space where I will go to point my crochet to make my low stitch my separation chain and start again in this way processing is very simple very smooth that does not give us precisely does not commit us particularly But the effect it is very very beautiful and it gives us precisely this texture that looks like an almost a grain of rice worked in irons e for this yarn let’s say a process that suits us very well because the yarn in a very delicate shade look how wonderful it is and precisely all these nuances of the ocher then go to do for this with this yarn a processing with points too laborious it takes away the beauty of the yarn so a stitch like this simple enhances me the yarn which is very beautiful and very shiny and therefore puts it in evidence i worked my panel for about 47 48 cm see this is the last point I made so let’s see together I made a base of 43 cm for a size s this size s so i made my panel this i started working mine 94 chain stitches plus two that I used to get up so all my panel I recommend being checked even during processing must always have basic which 94 stitches for size s then here it is also up to you if you want it a little bigger 43 then cm l I worked for a height of 47 48 centimeters now I’m not going to quit my job because I turn this rectangle like this and I will go to work my sleeve with round trips now we will see together so we will work in this verse for about first 19 cm then this piece here and then to create this U we are going to work the two pieces another four centimeters for a total of 24 and we will leave precisely this in the center because then we will take our hands that I will show you fold them in half and get a sleeve wide and the workmanship of the panel is this I have worked it now from the base up on the top once I got here I have already folded my sleeve and worked with round trips my sleeve with crossed high shirts always a very simple stitch obviously I worked as I showed you so in this way leaving precisely this space in the center and then the sleeves and then folded the work you get this This sleeve and here then my hug will pass you see this way Of course I will do the same thing now also on the other side then I’m going to make my shirts high crossed now we will work together our say then we will fold our work and keep the other sleeve only later then I will go to take my other panel and overlap it and go to make the seams of the sides You see this is the panel that has started to work, I recommend the lateral line must always be straight, therefore the stitches from linens from the base to the end must be the stitches you have fitted so the centimeters you have at the beginning must be the same as the ones you have the end so I went and always checked the number of the jerseys along the way in my case were 94 and in the end he comes back with 94 so I worked all my rectangle finished the last turn of my panel I am not going to cut the thread to close but I get up with a chain you see I have already advanced I got up finished my panel with my last stitch passes I get up with a chain and turn I go to work The vertical part of mine panel by simply working a low-knit edge then I go back to the first stitch and make a low stitch and I do everything creates all the low stitches along the base then roughly inside each stitch I make a low stitch I recommend because on both sides now the low stitches that I am going to make obviously must be of the same number because on these low stitches then I’m going to assemble to build my hands which is naturally each side of my panel must have the same number of low stitches why on that on this number we will go to Then build our sleeves so they will have to be of the same number of stitches after I have worked all mine low links sideways I or roughly 78 I get up with 3 chains 1 2 and 3 and started to knit my cross stitches like this So I skip one basic stitch and go to the next thread on the crochet hook and I knit a high thread on the crochet hook go back and go to the shirt that I jumped over and make a high shirt in this way and I formed my first cross stitch thread on the crochet hook assault a basic shirt I go to the next and I do a high shirt thread on the crochet hook go back to what I skipped basic cross stitch and do another treble crochet I proceed my elaboration for this lap is also in the following laps all cross stitched in this way So thread on the crochet jump a basic stitch I go to the next high shirt thread on the crochet hook I go to the stitch I jumped earlier and knit Almost arrived at the complete end with the last two high seas crossed in this way and in the last I run a shirt normally high so at the beginning of the round I will have a high stitch of course, in the stitches that I have at the base, the low stitches that I made along the whole base must be of equal number I proceed my elaboration getting up with 3 little chains I turn my work this way and proceed to do other rounds of crossed treble crochets so I skip the vest next I go to the next one then in the second I knit a high stitch and then you go back I cross my stitch and proceed in the same way So So you see the result will be this I skip the next shirt went into this I do my high stitch hero on the crochet I go back and in the maria previous I make another treble crochet so I continue my work As you can see I worked x 19 cm with crossed high links so I made 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 rounds of crossed treble crochets You see the effect you get is very nice because this perforation and therefore I created a different effect a different texture from the body than so a more openwork thing on my arms that I liked a lot so I worked These my 19 cm which are practically this piece here that goes from the base up to here at the base we say of the aou that now I have to create therefore now I will put here and here in these two corners you see at this point at this point I will put mine marker and I will go to work separately these other two bits x 4 centimeters and I will create this u that will be exactly that that will determine let’s say the passage of my arm an arm that will give an opening So I’ll show you here on the last turn or 37 groups of high links in total therefore I divided in this way I left 13 stitches 13 groups of high stitches crossed on each side so let’s take it off let’s say what shirt I am with raised I left one 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 st the thirteenth I put my marker I did the same for the other side then one 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 and 13 therefore the 13 are the couples of tall maria crossed and the thirteenth and this is between a group one couple is another I put my marker inside I have 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 left hence eleven groups of crossed high links then translated into centimeters Let’s say that here about 17 cm for the two sides and in the center I have left 15 centimeters more or less So now I take my job I got here and I will start working x 4 centimeters then we will see how many laps I have done we will see it at the end it is the job only this piece with the return forward gili later when I am done I will work the other piece why me now I go to work This little bit here getting up and then later this little bit therefore I take my crochet hook and do nothing but do the same thing that has done so far I get up with the 3 little chains I’m going to turn my work In this way and I go to work with crossed hands until the last one where I put the marker So I continue to do the work I have done so far only that I will stop at the marker In this way Here you see I worked my shirts then collaborated 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 groups this is the thirteenth group i am approaching my marker I make the last 2 treble crochets crossed here hallmark and I’m going to work here right in the space in between the high stitch that will be my edge in this way why now here I put the marker so I end my tour I get up with 3 chains I turn my work like this and go to work like this x 4 centimeters So I resume my workmanship and my crossed high links Here you see I worked x 4 cm my bit separately so I did 123 rounds of crossed high links and I did the same thing on the other side So I came to create I show better This I have worked before my a part and then later the other and here I am at the end of my third lap third and last lap what we have to do now is very very simple I have to take my sleeve like this and fold it up to the starting line of the upper stitches and fold this other side like this You see so I bake mine like this wide sleeve I will see you again this is my sleeve my panel where on the side I built my high crossed shirts for the centimeters that I told you and in the end I will do nothing but bend in this way up to the base at the base of the workings with the high links mine sleeve and now without removing the thread from this point from where I finished the rounds of magicians and highs crossed I will go to join this side and I will go to make my seams in this way so I take the thread on the first shirt of the other of the other small piece that I worked then here I take my son I take my trust alone and I take her out to the other side and she started stitching By making very low stitches So I’m going to join every evil to the outermost part of the shirt I match the two closest links in this way pass my trust and effect a very low shirt I return here like this in the two let’s say I take together the two outermost parts of the meshes that correspond so Look at it this way this is what is on the other side I take the thread, take it out with a very low stitch and proceed with all the stitches Until the end so that they fit together and close This little bit of closing then the part of my sleeve After completing all my stitching I can vary my thread and go hide my tail with the needle from the anus You see it was a seam that you don’t even notice very low and for the other sleeve I will proceed in the same way then I will connect always inside first of all I will have to cut the other edge of the the other let’s say lateral the other lateral of the shirt and then I will do the sleeve in the same way as I did this then the meshes say the outline of the side they will be the same as the stitches on this side and the same number of stitches high cross sleeves This is my reverse panel. This is my monica folded and on the other side there will be the other because I will have done the same thing now I still have to hide my children you see it’s always on the reverse now I’m going to put my other panel and make the seams you see this my panel on the reverse here is a sleeve and here is the other sleeve folded in the reverse side I’m going to get my other panel and put it in the same direction as the texture of this one so I superimpose it naturally in the other panel now I will have to complete with the two edges because you see I finished mine processing I make my edge in low stitches of the same number as the low stitches that I completed for the other edge then once carried out overlap the two panels in this way and I’m going to make my seams in the reverse side in this way so I will proceed with the seam assembling the panels to the end in this way you see After that it will just reverse the work in the right side and the seams will obviously remain inside My finished shirt shows up so you see I turned it on the right side this is the panel where I had continued the work this is my sleeve that I continued to work further with a few rounds of work loves the high crossed in the round now we will go to see together because if I left it so finished it would reach me just at the elbow I tried to see how it was completing it with another piece of workmanship and then the sleeve let’s say that it goes down slightly lower than the elbow and I must say that looking at the difference between one sleeve and the other worn I liked it more precisely with the continuation of the processing I found it a little more refined a little more elegant however this is a choice you can do it according to yourself even if you will bring it maybe later in the summer now spring because being cotton so this shirt is also good for the summer then I’ll show you in the back part how it is because in the front part it won’t have seams let’s say this is the part of the straight where I applied the seams the seam here on the inside I did it with lago da dall’ana I decided so in the end because it seemed to me to be slightly flatter As you can see, there is no point of detachment line, nothing is the seam and it really is flat with the wool guide but also mum is very low and in any case it is fine it does not leave a cord of therefore it remains soft to the touch and this is the sleeve seam as it appears behind so you see that it remains very beautiful and linear precisely detachment signals that can be annoying then I have now shown you how I completed the sleeve, let’s see if you possibly want to do as I like continue the work in marja you cross yourself working for a few turns in the round another thing in the upper part precisely where I will go to put the neck as the neckline is very wide and is a boat neckline and this too you will decide then I sewed for six centimeters in the part of the shoulders so to the many because otherwise the shirt was quite large low-cut here is a decision that also possibly you will evaluate I did six centimeters you can sew a 68 cm or consider whether to leave it perhaps sewn only on one side and bring it low-cut on the other because you don’t want to carry it with your shoulder out, you will make yours then with the evaluations Then we broke up to the sleeve folding then the seam from the moment I had the my note hole for the passage of the arm I started to work in the round with high links I did exactly 1 2 3 4 5 and 6 laps I got up for six laps and six laps now I’m going to do the seventh is the last lap and we see the crossed high links are precisely made with the same mesh system that we have seen so far for the sleeve we only go see how to work them in the round because it was not able to do it so then I got up and I started from the center where the seam is started my treble crochets crossed all along the circumference around all mine sleeve circumference I made 18 groups 18 pairs of crossed high links then let’s see how we say join the stitches one close the round so I did the last the last high stitch crossed the penultimate crossing and I make the last pair of but the high crossed I go to join At the third chain stitch of this stitch made from the beginning of the round and close with a very low stitch like this can see more closely then I see him again I made my high shirt I’m going to cross it and I’m going to close by hooking up on the third chain stitch of this stitch in the corner we say the crossed high stitch I close my lap I take my crochet hook and go back to this point here so I go inside I fish the thread I make a low stitch I get up with two thread chains on the crochet allotment cross and I start with my high links crossed along my entire circumference so it is very very simple Here are those of my shirts and continue along my entire circumference, in this way I made seven laps So in length I made seven rounds of crossed treble crochets if you want to make it longer you can go on then make a shirt with a longer sleeve This is how we came to the end of this video tutorial today I hope you liked the project and can be a starting point for it note Your future work I thank you very much for following me I hope you subscribe to my youtube channel not forgetting to activate the bell to not miss the next video tutorials and to always stay with share our projects thank you for your attention to the next hello hello

47 Comments on “MAGLIA UNCINETTO “GIRASOLE” – BLUSA CROCHE’ GIRASOLE”

  1. Modello favoloso! Il colore richiama la gioia delle emozioni primaverili…
    Sei stata bravissima! Non vedo l’ora di iniziarlo❣️❣️❣️❤️

  2. È veramente strepitosa purtroppo sono forte di fianchi e tendo sempre a vestire con maglie un po' più lunghe ma ti faccio i complimenti per i punti non soliti x la maglieria con uncinetto

  3. Bonjour. Très joli . Très bien expliqué avec ce petit accent adorable . Projet à retenir et merci beaucoup de prendre le temps de marquer en français . Très bonne journée .

  4. Molto bella e chic👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🌺

  5. Bellissima maglia Mi scusi la domanda ma il campione lo devo fare con il punto tela tenendo conto anche del multiplo?Grazie

  6. Complimenti sei bravissima la farò sicuramente..grazie per essere stata chiara nella spiegazione.. Bellissima

  7. Buongiorno, abitando vicino alla rivendita Mafil ho cercato il cotone Samba ma mi è stato.detto che non è più in produzione perché è un filato datato. Cercherò un'alternativa sempre della Mafil.

  8. Muy hermoso tus tejidos, gracias, sería bueno traducirlo al español. Saludos desde Tabasco, México

  9. Ciao,iscritta subito…😉era tanto che cercavo una maglia con questo modello,lo definisco manica a pipistrello, nn so se sia corretto il termine..grazie x il progetto lo farò sicuramente..😘🤩

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